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| Imperial Terrain |
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| Tyranid Terrain |
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| General |
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By Steve Cumiskey
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Making a Base
Making a base is essential for keeping clusters of rocks together
on the tabletop, but it can also make other terrain pieces more
resistant to damage. The base can be made from stiff card, foamboard,
or even wood for extra strength. Most of the time, it doesn't
really matter whether you make the base before or after you
make the terrain piece, but it's usually easier to make the
base first and then build onto it, particularly when you're
making rock clusters. Bases look best with a beveled edge and
a coating of textured paint (paint mixed with sand) to match
the gaming table. |
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| Take a piece of stiff card and cut out
a base. Then, break your polystyrene insulation
foam into rough chunks and glue them onto
the base. |
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| Apply spackling or putty filler to the
gaps between the chunks and smooth off the
beaded surface of the polystyrene insulation
foam. |
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| Glue patches of gravel and sand onto the
chunks of polystyrene and then onto the rest
of
the base. |
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| Next, you'll need to paint the model. First,
paint the entire model with textured paint.
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Drybrushing
While there are a wide variety of techniques suitable for
painting miniatures, there are only a few that are really
suited to painting terrain. For a desert landscape, one technique
in particular comes to mind: drybrushing.
Drybrushing is a fast and attractive technique for building
up color on a textured scenery surface. To drybrush your model,
take a brush (preferably an old one, as drybrushing tends
to damage brushes) and work your chosen color into it. Wipe
any excess onto your palette. The paint will need to be fairly
dense (i.e., not watery). If the paint is too thin, let it
dry a little on your palette before you begin.
With the paint on the brush, take a piece of tissue or newspaper
and run the brush over it until the brush strokes leave almost
no marks, even when you apply pressure. To cover the large,
flat areas of most terrain, you will need to have your brush
as dry as possible. You will need to scrub the brush quite
hard onto your terrain piece to deposit any paint.
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| Paint the color on in layers. Start with
a basecoat
of Dark Flesh. |
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| For the final highlight, switch to a slightly
smaller brush and drybrush
with Bleached Bone. |
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Dark Flesh
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Vomit Brown
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Bleached Bone
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Copyright © Games
Workshop Ltd 2004. All Rights Reserved. Battle For Macragge, the Chaos
factions and logos, Codex, Games Workshop, the Games
Workshop logo, GW, Citadel and the Citadel device, ’Eavy Metal, Eldar
symbol devices, Eye of Terror, Warhammer, Warhammer 40,000 device, Double-Headed/Imperial
Eagle device, 40K, Space Marine, Space Marine Chapters and Space Marine
Chapter insignia, Eldar, Tyranid, Genestealer, Golden Demon, the Tau caste
designations, Tau, Fire Warrior, Kroot, Necron, Ork, Ork devices, Chaos
and all associated marks, the ‘In the Grim Darkness of the Far Future’ tagline,
names, races
and race insignia, characters, vehicles, locations, units, illustrations
and images from the Warhammer 40,000 universe are either ®
, TM and/or © Games Workshop Ltd 2000-2004, variably registered in
the UK and other countries around the world. All Rights Reserved. |
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